What makes a great neighbourhood bistro? Just ask friends Olle T Cellton, Fredrik Lundberg, Jon Lacotte and Johan Agrell, the quartet behind Stockholm favourite, Babette. There they marry Italian-accented small plates of the highest order – think ‘rainbow trout, celeriac, lemon and sorrel’ and ‘veal tartare, Parmesan and colatura’ - with an impeccable wine list and a welcome that’s as warm as the wood-fired pizza oven they inherited from the previous owners. There’s no pretence here, just simple, lovely things done very, very well. No wonder they have such a loyal fan base, including half of Stockholm’s restaurant community, who pour in on Sunday nights for smoked beef, soft-baked fig, Parmesan and spicy tomato pizzas and several glasses of wine handpicked by the sommelier owners. Want to know where chefs eat? Look no further.